Russell Country Travel Blog

Pine Butte Guest Ranch Tour

It's always fun to tour around our fabulous guest ranches in Central Montana and last week was no exception.

Pine Butte Guest Ranch, owned by The Nature Conservancy, sits in Teton Canyon west of Choteau, Montana about 25 miles. It's a beautiful setting and an easy drive.

The guest ranch had not yet opened for the season but some of their training was scheduled to start the day after we were there.

Once the season begins, I'm sure it's somewhat of a nonstop blur until they reach the end of September. Weekly guests are at the ranch Sunday through Sunday.

Our group met in the lodge and then toured a cabin that had been undergoing a facelift. The cabin was spacious, had a nice woodsy feel and I could have settled in right then!

I could imagine myself sitting by the fireplace, reading a good book or just watching the crackling fire. Or, I could also imagine rocking the day away on the porch of the main lodge at Pine Butte - lots of options for my imagination!

Pine Butte Guest Ranch begins and ends their summer season with weekly workshops.

David Sibley of Sibley's Field Guide to Birds will lead two separate workshops which will have great appeal for avid bird watchers. The Rocky Mountain Front has two distinct flyways for migratory birds and a combination of birds that live in short grass prairie and also the alpine birds.

Other workshops include themes for photography, grizzly bears and a women-only week.

Pine Butte Guest Ranch has individual cabins for guests and, depending on group sizes, they can accommodate about 30 people at one time. Guests stay in the cabins and meals and indoor activities happen in the main lodge.

There is a full time naturalist on staff at Pine Butte Guest Ranch who leads hikes in the area. Wranglers are also well trained to spot and identify flora and fauna native to this area along the Rocky Mountain Front.  

This ranch has been a long-time guest ranch and originally was owned by Alice and Kenny Gleason. Some folks refer to it as the Gleason Ranch, others call it the Circle 8. There is some amazing Montana ranching history here. 

As we were getting ready to leave I stopped back in the lodge and took a few photos of the handmade furniture, all made about 70 years ago by Kenny Gleason. This couch caught my eye! 

We had lots of fun imagining ourselves spending a week at the ranch. My bags could be packed in a minute!

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Scenic Drive West of Choteau

I'll admit, we were heading to a destination west of Choteau but even if we weren't, it still would have been a gorgeous drive in Central Montana.

After a quick stop in Choteau, we drove 4 or 5 miles north on US Hwy 89, then turned west on the Teton Road. If you haven't driven this road in a while, it's a new experience. It's amazing what some new asphalt will do. That road is as smooth as, well...you get the picture.

As you drive west, the Teton River is on your left and ranches and hayfields are on your right. You also pass by Eureka Reservoir, so close to the paved road you could almost cast from the car. No, we didn't!

Seventeen miles west of US Hwy 89 we turned left onto a gravel road, then drove across the Teton River and past a cluster of mailboxes. Right after the mailboxes we veered right on to the South Fork Road.

On the drive you see the stunning Rocky Mountain Front forming a perfect backdrop to rolling ranchland. The terrain begins to change after you drive towards the mountains and all of a sudden you see more timbered ground, the road is a bit winding and ultimately you enter in to Teton Canyon.

You also pass by the trailhead and interpretive kiosk for Ear Mountain, a noted rocky cliff face on The Front.

In this area you get used to a fairly constant breeze, OK some days its a definite wind! Today's breeze had a sharp chill to it and I suspected it rolled right over the snow in those distant crevices.

Dramatic, spectacular and downright pretty are some great adjectives to describe this drive along Central Montana's Rocky Mountain Front. What a great day!

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Lunch At The Meeting Grounds

I traveled to Choteau, Montana today and our lunch choice, The Meeting Grounds, was a refreshing stop.

Choteau is 52 miles northwest of Great Falls, an easy drive on US  Hwy 89. The town is a pass through for many visitors heading to Glacier National Park and those seeking recreation along the Rocky Mountain Front.

The Meeting Grounds Cafe is located in an old bank building built in 1906 on a corner of Choteau's main street (also US Hwy 89). The decor is fresh, displays are tempting and dang, the food was awesome!

The blended coffee drink menu was very extensive, a beautiful decorated sample of a wedding cake topped one display case, and there were some yummy looking cookies and pastries.

We were a bit ahead of the lunch rush so we got busy and took photos of the restaurant.

The Meeting Grounds is open for breakfast and lunch Monday through Friday. Specialties include baked goods, soups and sandwiches. And, they have homemade baked bread. I loved the whole wheat bread in my sandwich.

One more plus, especially for travelers - there is wireless internet in the cafe.

I'll definitely be back to sample the goodies I passed up this noon.

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14 Years and Still Luring Visitors

The Lewis & Clark Interpretive Center in Great Falls, Montana celebrated their 14th anniversary Sunday, May 6. Balloons, ice cream, Smokey Bear...there were lots of activities for all ages.

Since opening day 14 years ago there have been many visitors, many changing exhibits and constant enhancement to permanent exhibits.

School groups (this is the seaon for that) work a visit to the Lewis & Clark Interpretive Center into their history curriculum and Elder Hostels and group tours use the Interpretive Center as an anchor for their history-based Lewis & Clark tours.

Here's a fun photo of Smokey Bear greeting a young visitor to the Center last Sunday.

Some background on the Lewis & Clark Interpretive Center - it is located about midway on the Lewis & Clark National Historic Trail. Many exhibits focus on the expedition's interaction with the Plains Indian tribes who helped them through many struggles.

As you walk through the 6,000 square foot interpretive hall at the Center, you'll travel the route all the way to the Pacific Ocean and back.

Exhibits are geared to a variety of ages and and it's never too early to start learning as you can see from this young and curious visitor.

The Lewis & Clark Interpretive Center is open year round and during the summer they are open 7 days a week. Evening programs are scheduled regularly and there are two stunning films shown in the theater several times a day.

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Missing the Music

On a recent visit to the Highwood Bar in Highwood, MT I grabbed my camera and snapped a few quick photos of this iconic bar/steakhouse.

If you aren't from the area and want a geographic description of the location I tell people that Highwood is located between Belt and Fort Benton or you can turn off US Hwy 87 sooner if departing from Great Falls. It's a beautiful drive, some varied geography and rolling crop and pasture land.

It was chilly outside the day we were there and we were actually in search of a hot cup of coffee and a restroom. We had been out to Lost Lake and a cold wind took us a bit by surprise.

The only other person at the Highwood Bar was the bartender. It was about 11am so it obviously was not a hopping spot yet! He quickly put a pot of coffee on and chatted with us.

You can almost drive by the bar if you are coming from the Fort Benton side. It's a small building, log exterior, set fairly close to the paved road.

Longtime piano player, "Piano Jack" Myllymaki was a fixture here for many years. A tribute to the piano man is on one of the walls. A couple of great artistic renderings of this icon would make anyone wish he was here today to tickle the ivories.

The piano would not be classified as great - it has seen better days but it's a nice old upright that has a good sound. And, it's a walk down memory lane for some of us who remember bars that typically had a piano in them!

The Highwood Bar has a wall of local brands on varnished wood. Names of the brand owners are below the brands and it was fun to see how many people I knew. It is interesting to try and read the brands...I get my rocking/lazy whatevers mixed up and I'm never sure if it should be read left to right, top to bottom etc.

We hated to leave the Highwood Bar but we had other places to visit on our trek through Central Montana.

On my next visit to Highwood I will plan it around dinner. The menu at the bar is not extensive. In fact, it reads like a tribute to the beef industry! Just thinking about their great steaks makes me hungry!

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Tickling The Ivories

I was very fortunate to visit Philip Aaberg at his Sweetgrass Music recording studio in Chester, MT recently.

Chester is a small town located on US Hwy 2, about 45 minutes east of Shelby (I-15). It's also Philip's boyhood home and, as of a few years ago, his new permanent home.

We first stopped at the Sweetgrass Music offices located in a very cool old building undergoing renovation in downtown Chester. All of Philip's CDs were displayed and I recognized two of the ones I have, Live From Montana and a more recent blues CD.

With a nod to his Montana home and roots, songs on the Live From Montana CD have titles like The Big Open, Marias River Breakdown, Before Barbed Wire, Going to The Sun...well, you get the picture that there is a definite tie to Montana here! This CD was also a Grammy nominee.

The design is also pure Montana with emphasis on the Hi-Line area where Chester is located.

We ventured next to the recording studio - a treat for the eyes just driving up! The design is pure grain bin style - no kidding! This is wheat country and what an appropriate theme.

The Great Northern Bed & Breakfast is connected to the recording studio which is then connected to the Aaberg home. Perfect for those who come to study with Philip and convenient for the host and hostess in doing breakfast.

A nice fit for the Great Northern name is a beautiful stained glass window in the bed and breakfast.

Local Chester stained glass artist Craig Waldron designed this window and it's a wonderful tribute to those old Great Northern trains (now Burlington North/Santa Fe). The rail line parallels US Hwy 2 as it travels along Montana's northern border, affectionately referred to as The Hi-Line.

I like how the Aaberg's have woven in so many local touches to their music and their unique B&B lodging.

I think we were all hoping for a chance to hear Philip play. After all, it's great to see the studio, see that gorgeous piano and see all the recording equipment BUT the real deal is when you hear that music!

Well, Philip was more than delighted to play for us and we all just stood in awe. The accoustics were perfect and the music was an absolute treat.

What a perfect day!

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Art in Trees

I was at Paris Gibson Square Museum of Art in Great Falls the other day and spent some time soaking up the good vibes in the Lee Steen room.

Paris Gibson Square is on the edge of downtown Great Falls, located between Central Avenue and First Avenue North. It was once a school building and it's life now is dedicated to contemporary art, changing exhibits and some permanent exhibits.

My favorite room at "The Square" is the Lee Steen room. Steen, who passed away in 1975, lived in Roundup, MT with his twin brother. Most folks today would consider him an outsider artist, not trained in art, a recluse and a bit eccentric.

Steen found cottonwood branches along the Musselshell River and turned them in to "people trees" with what most people would call junk. Probably one of our best recycling efforts in the 1970's!

After Steen passed away in 1975, the collection was at risk of being lost until Paris Gibson Square acquired it and dedicated an entire room to it. I love the way it is displayed with Steen's people trees surrounding the room. There is a bench in the middle of the room and you can spend a ton of time gazing at this unique artwork.

Admission to Paris Gibson Square Museum of Art is free, thanks to a substantial donation by a local business. There is much more art displayed at The Square but this room is my favorite!

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Soft Evening Light - Pretty Photo

I love sunsets but because backgrounds are fairly dark they really don't show that well in photos. I always say - you have to be there to really appreciate sunsets.

But, some soft evening light can really make a difference in an OK photo and a super-pretty one.

I was lucky the other evening and took several photos capturing the cliffs along the Upper Missouri River when I had been to Virgelle to ride the ferry.

Now, my problem. I can't decide if that is the Bear Paw Mountains or the Highwood Mountains in the background. I took the photo as I was leaving and I'm just not sure.

Whichever island range it is, the new little shoots of winter wheat and that pretty sandstone cliff combine for some great contrast in this photo.

Makes me want to go back there! 

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Missouri River Ferries Open for the Season

Another rite of spring - the three free river ferries on the Upper Missouri River begin operating!

The ferries are operated by the local county government -both Chouteau County and Blaine County coordinate the river ferries.

An operator usually lives right close to the river and when you drive up there is a buzzer to signal the operator that you need (or just want) a ride across the river.

The other day I found the brightest red pickup I could, asked the driver if he would head over to the Virgelle ferry (he said yes!) and I took some photos.

Central Montana's river ferries are located at Carter, Virgelle and near Winifred (called the Stafford-McClelland). Two of them are inside the Upper Missouri River Breaks National Monument and the other (Carter) is about 20 miles outside of the monument.

For some folks the ferries are an incredible time-saver since they would have to take a much longer route to get to their destination.

For me, I go out of my way, add on extra miles, just to ride the river ferries!

If you've never put your trusty wheels on what looks like a Huck Finn raft, give it a try!

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Six Mile Scenic Drive

When I was on my way to Virgelle, MT Saturday I took the first turn on US Hwy 87 coming from Havre. The sign said it was six miles to the Bureau of Land Management's campground named Coal Banks Landing.

During that six miles, I probably stopped and took 20 photos.

The road is gravel but it was in good condition. There are actually three gravel roads leading off US Hwy 87 towards Virgelle. I chuckle that this little town has three exits - pretty amazing!

The first photo I took was looking toward the Bear Paw Mountains.

A field of winter wheat showing spring growth provided the beautiful green foreground for this photo, some distant grain bins were glimmering in the mid-day sunshine and the mountains formed the background. Wow!

The Bear Paws are an island mountain range jutting up from this rolling plain. I'm always surprised how this landscape can change so dramatically in just a few miles.

I drove about one more mile after taking my first photo and there was this little calf giving me the "eye".

I got out of the car and walked a bit closer to the fence and he didn't budge. I took several photos of him, then, as I turned to leave he looked the other way and gave me another pose. You guessed it, I took a few more photos!

So far, it had taken me about 20 minutes to go two miles but I was coming up with some fun photos.

From this point I still couldn't see the Missouri River. The gravel county road made a few turns, following field section lines I suppose. Then I began to go down a hill with some  curves in the road.

Scenery changed dramatically again!

On my left side there were unique rock formations which I refer to as hoodoos. I took a few photos of them, then continued down the hill.

Straight ahead was a local farm/ranch. In the background of that was the mighty Missouri River and the river breaks.

Here's a photo of the hoodoos that I saw as I came down the hill.

The geography had definitely changed - all in a six mile drive. It is certainly well worth a traveler's time to take the road less traveled!

  

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